Citroën XM mekartips -> Karosseri -> Inredning
Inredning
  uppdaterad 2009-09-16
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XM break -93

Säkerhetsbälten Till toppen
Återspolning bälte
Kola 2008-01-13: Någon som vet om det går att justera återspolningen på bilbältet?

    Zummi:  Om du meiner at beltet går for seint tilbake, er dette enkelt å fikse. Trekk beltet heilt ut, og spray på silikonspray. Gjorde dette på alle beltene mine for nokre månader sidan. Som nye!
    Robhol:  Var ska sprayen sprutas på? På själva bältet? Blir det inte kladdigt? Är det någon särskild silikonspray som är lämplig?
    Kalle1:  Har köpt silikonspray på Biltema, det fungerade utmärkt utan att kladda.
    Zummi:  Berre spray direkte på heile beltet. Blir som nytt.
Kola: Tackar för tipset, det fungerade ju kanonbra!

Strengthen up
Johs K 2006-05-08: Has anyone tried to fix the return mechanisem in the safetybelts? Is it possible to strenghten it up a little?
    Richard M: my trick was to swap the driver's side for the passenger one - on the basis that it would be less used and therefore have more spring in it. It returns a lot smarter now.

Sikkerhetsseler bak
Black Lemon 2007-08-17: Av alle ting har jeg fått mangel på sikkerhetsselene bak da rullemekanismen nok er utslitt. Har jo hatt barna bak her i en del år. Originalselene er ikke lenger å få tak i hos Citroën. Kan jeg bruke uoriginale og er det i tilfelle noen som har et tips? Torshov hadde noen som skulle passe til CX, men festepunktene så ikke ut til å stemme. Selve rullen er festet med en bolt til hattehyllen i tillegg til noen pins som stikker ned i noen hull der.
    CitroenCX: Det som ofte skjer er at selene blir fulle av fett og mister fleksibiliteten, dette igjen gjør at fjøren som skal trekke de inn ikke blir sterk nok. Noen ganger kan de være så insmurt med iskrem sjokolade ketchup og unevnelige ting at de blir for tykke.
1. Skru ut selene.
2. Ta en bøtte og bland en sterk blanding av lunkent vann og såpe. Gjerne Bio Tex. Zalo virker også.
3. Legg selene i bløt og kryst/vri regelmessig en times tid. Hold mekanismen tørr!
4. Skyll godt.
5. La de tørke nesten. Men bare nesten.
6. Slipp de inn på rullen noen få omdreininger og rykk KRAFTIG.
7. Fortsett og slippe inn med kraftige rykk helt til rullen er full.
8. Gjenta ett par ganger.
Legg det hele et varmt sted over natten. (40-50 grader.) Tørk de på rull. Ikke strukket. Nå tørker de med et spenn som gjør at de vil helst være i rull om du skjønner. Monter. Gjenta inrullingen med kraftige rykk. Før og etter montering. Virker de fortsatt ikke må du bytte de.

Inredning Till toppen

Rengöra klädseln Till toppen
Fräscha upp klädseln
Johan S 2001-05-07: Jag har just köpt en CX -84 och undrar var man kan få tag på en ny klädsel. Originalklädseln är i detta fall grå och väldigt smutsig. Fanns det många olika färger att välja på när man beställde dessa bilar? Och hur dyrt kan detta komma att bil?

    Ulf: Om du inte har något emot den grå färgen - varför inte göra som jag: haka av den och köra på 30 grader i tvättmaskin? Den blev som ny!

Fräscha upp klädseln
Roland M 2008-04-20: Da har jeg tatt mot til meg og gått løs med AutoGlym Interior Shampoo innvendig i den grønne Breaken. Det er jo en del mørke flekker på det lyse, lekre interiøret fra tidligere eiere. Så langt ser det ut som om stoffet som er brukt til gulvteppet og i bagasjerommet responderer godt på behandlingen - flekkene forsvinner helt eller delvis, og det blir ikke skjolder eller skader. Men på dørtrekket(som vel er av samme type som setene) var det vanskeligere å få bort flekker uten å skape skjolder. Om det skyldes meg, Autoglym eller substansen som har skapt flekken, er vanskelig å si. Noen som har erfaring med å rense det lyse TRS/TRD-interiøret på serie II? Evt. prøvd andre produkter enn AutoGlym?

    Jonsto: Jeg føler i grunnen at jeg er kompetent til å si noe her. Etter å ha drevet med bilpleie/Tidy Car i seks år og nå med innvendig rens av både biler og båter. En tepperensemaskin er cluet. Med møbelmunnstykke. Vaskemiddelet er det samme som brukes på tepper. Spray først på flekkene og børst med en kost eller neglebørste. Så "skrubber" du med maskinen. Den sprayer vann og suger samtidig. Da skulle det bli så bra som det går an å få det. Sug så tørt det lar seg gjøre uten å spraye vann til slutt. Men vær klar over at slitasje også kan gi fargeforandring.
    Citro1CX: Jeg tror den beste måten å få setetrekkene rene er å montere de av setene og vaske dem i vaskemaskina. Jeg gjorde det med et sett med beige/hudfarget trekk. Resultatet ble bra. Jeg brukte flekkerenser på de verste flekkene og brukte en negelbørtste for å få de helt rene for oljesøl. Oljesølet var forresten vanskelig å få helt bort. Deretter ble de vasket 2 ganger på 60 grader med tøymykner. Det er jo en del arbeid med å få de av og på, men det er verdt resultatet. Har du en neseringtang går jobben med å montere ganske lett. En bonus med denne metoden er at du også kan vaske skumgummien i setene, jeg dynket disse i ajax og spylte dem med hageslangen etterpå. det er en utrolig følelse å sette seg i setene etterpå ...nesten som nybil :D
Neseringtang

Snygga till bagagerumsbeklædningen
Peter B 2001-05-26: Jeg har smuds og vandskjolder på bagagerumsbeklædningen og vil nu gerne have det til at fremstå mere indbyende. Er der et godt forslag?

    Anders N: Utan att veta exakt vilken kvalité och utförande det är på mattan till en CX är mitt spontana förslag att du plockar ur hela mattan ur bagageutrymmet för rengöring. Fyll upp badkaret med hett vatten och töm i vanligt tvättmedel i lämplig mängd. Nu kan du tvätta mattan på ett effektivt och bekvämt sätt. Du kommer att bli förvånad hur rent det blir. Om det fortfarande finns fläckar kvar kan du använda något av de fläckborttagningsmedel som finns på marknaden. På en gammal Opel jag hade var det en beige heltäckningsmatta i hela bilen. Mattan hade blivit mögelangripen pga att bilen läckte in vatten. Jag plockade ur hela inredningen och lyfte bort mattan. Därefter fyllde jag upp badkaret med vatten och Klorin (Klordesinficering) där mattan fick ligga någon halvtimma. Sedan sköljde jag ur mattan och upprepade tvättningen med vanligt tvättmedel. Jag trodde att heltäckningsmattan skulle blekas av denna brutala behandling men förvånades av att mattan behöll sin fina beiga originalkulör. Kontentan av detta är att Opels heltäckningsmattor av sent 70-talssnitt är av hög kvalité och att jag inte har en aning om kvalitén på CX-mattor.

Skinnklädsel m m
Harry S (US) 2001-08-26: Someone had a recommendation for softening up aged leather seats. What was it? Hide food?, Lexol, Saddle soap? What is best for deep softening?

    Gary M: I used a lot of Lexol, but now my front seat is rotting a bit. But it might have been a case of too much too late though I used it before.
    Jason L: Personally I'm ambivalent about Lexol. This is good stuff: http://www.leatherique.com I use it sometimes when a car needs serious treatment. Just remember to let is soak in an bake in the car. Its not cheap though....
    Lou: On hard, stretchening old leather, i used saddle soap, then walrus grease (or sea lion grease, well that kind of fish). It stinks a lot & I did that at a time the seats had been removed to be resewed (leather go stretched, then it blows seams). I had improvement on suppleness. Anyway, I have a rare collection of palenblanket in the car to cover the seats when parked under the summer sun (coming soon). But I know there is another cream, or animal oil wich is used by english connoisseurs on they old Bentley (pre WWII, obviously) or any british classic car. but don't know exactly the name of the produce. Some says it's never too much too late, if you fid the adequate produces. Anyway if the leather is blown...
    Gabor D J: I found the following in the BMW 7 Series FAQ a few years ago (the products mentioned are mostly US):
5.3: Leather/Vinyl Care
From: CarcareSp@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Sep 1995 09:25:22 -0400
I am enclosing an article I wrote on the care and feeding of leather/vinyl. One section covers the restoration of seats/dashes.
The care and feeding of the leather and the vinyl components of your automotive interior are two very different processes. If you are using one product on both, that is somewhat like using gasoline as a lubricant. It will work, but not for long. I will cover the care and feeding of leather and vinyl separately.
Leather having once been used to keep the insides of a cow from falling out was designed to pass moisture through tiny pores. These tiny pores absorb human perspiration and as the water evaporates, salts contained therein remain to absorb the essential oils in the leather. This accumulation of salts and other grunge should be cleaned from the leather about twice a year (more often if the seats get more than their fair share of your leftover sweat). The loss of oils within the leather is the first step to hardening, cracking and shrinkage. Leather dashes are very prone to hardening and shrinking. Your dash is subjected to the destructive UV rays and heat concentrated by the windshield. The leather (or vinyl) of your dash rests upon a metal backing that acts like a frying pan. This "frying" drives the essential oils from the leather causing premature shrinkage, cracking and hardening. Thus a dash should be treated more often than the seats or door panels.
Cleaning leather may be accomplished by using a mild soap and water, or a specifically designed leather cleaner. Of all the products I have tried, I still like Lexol pH Cleaner. It is pH balanced, and gentle. All cleaners will rehydrate the leftover salts and grime and wash them from the leather fibers. Use only leather products on leather, do not use vinyl cleaners as these products tend to be much harsher and may not be that beneficial to the leather. Any cleaner should be rinsed thoroughly from the leather. I have tried spraying off with a hose, but that just seemed to fill the car with soapy water (a hole drilled in the floor was needed to drain it out - just kidding). I went back to using a damp cloth and repeatedly wiping down the leather. Once the leather is clean, a conditioner should be used to restore lost oils and emollients. There are several conditioners on the market. Two of my favorites over the years are Lexol Conditioner and Tony Nancy Leather Conditioner. These two seem to be the most easily absorbed into the leather fibers and tend to leave a relatively less "greasy" finish than any of the other products I have tried. Another good product is Connoly Hide Food. This product is made from rendered animal parts and will turn rancid in about two years. This and the distinctive "cow" smell removes it from my top two list (I spent too much time milking the south end of a north pointing cow, so am not a fan of cow smells). Zymol makes a product called "Leather Treat". It does not, in my humble opinion, do any better job than the much less expensive Lexol or Tony Nancy products. Again, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather and above all try to avoid silicone based products. The silicone oil will dissolve out the leather's natural oils and tend make the leather sticky. Silicone has a very high electrostatic attraction, so will invite every dust particle within miles to set up camp in your interior. Apply the conditioner to a soft cloth and work into the leather, allow to be absorbed into the fibers and then buff off the excess.
You may condition the leather as often as you wish. The leather will tell you if you apply too much or apply too often. The leather fibers will just not absorb the excess.
If your leather has hardened or needs some intensive softening, there is a really nifty product called "Surflex Leather Soffener". This product is made from natural and synthetic oils that restore the natural softness to neglected leather. Clean the leather and then apply a liberal coat of Soffener. Allow to penetrate the leather for about 24 hours. Wipe off the excess. If it needs an additional application, repeat the above. For really bad areas, cover with plastic and allow to sit for a few days. Once the leather is sufficiently softened, allow to "cure" for another 24 hours and buff off any excess. You are done. I jokingly say this product will turn a dog's rawhide chew into a kid glove. I have had some luck with leather dashes with this method. Once the leather has softened, I have been able to gently tuck it back under the edges of the trim and windshield clips. This is a lot cheaper than a new dash and may be worth a try before spending a ton of money.
If your leather or vinyl has scuff marks, scratches or areas that the surface color had been removed, you may refinish it yourself The key is another Suflex product. The Suflex Colorant & Finish for Flexible Surfaces may be matched to the exact color required. Any interior leather or vinyl surface may be refinished. It is not recommended to spot finish any area. If your seat bolsters have belt loop scuff marks, you should refinish the entire front of the seat. I usually do from welting to welting. This provides a visual break that does not make the non refinished areas appear quite as shabby. But then why not do the whole seat, dash, or door panel? Start by cleaning the area(s) to be refinished with a suitable Organic Solvent. I prefer Wurth Citrus Degreaser or P21S Total Auto Wash. Prior to usage, test all solvents on an area that does not show. I use the excess on the underside of the seat to test colorfastness of the finish. Spray the solvent on a soft lint free cloth, and then wipe down the surface(s). Repeat after a few minutes. Rinse with a damp cloth and allow to dry thoroughly (at least 24 hours). The manufacturer of Surflex says to strip the old finish off using lacquer thinner, commercial paint remover or C-P Stripper. I don't, because most interiors are not in that bad a shape and I have never found it necessary (They also recommend lightly sanding the area prior to usage, I don't do that either - no guts). Mix the Surflex completely and use it like a wood stain. I use a small piece of lint free cloth and work the Surflex into the leather or vinyl just as if I were staining wood. Once the desired color of finish is achieved, allow to dry undisturbed for at least 24 hours.
I allow the surface to "harden off" for about 2 weeks before applying any conditioners to leather or vinyl protectants to vinyl parts. I have not had a lot of luck refinishing a dark leather or vinyl a lighter color. The old color tends to show through in small "cracks" and the whole panel seems to be "muddy". Maybe if you strip off all the old finish, it would look better. Someday, I will get an old seat and give it a try.
The Surflex Black Colorant works great on black bumpers, black spoilers or black rubber/vinyl trim that has been scratched or scuffed. Clean the entire part thoroughly with Wurth Citrus Degreaser, rinse and dry thoroughly. Stain the area with the Colorant and allow to dry. It will look like new. After about 3 weeks hardening off, coat with a protective coating of Mequiar #42 Rubber Treatment or Black Again.
Small cuts, cracks or holes in leather may be partially repaired using another Surflex product called Flex-Fill. This is a semi-flexible cosmetic filling material. You use it like a spackle compound. It will take the Surflex colorant similar to leather or vinyl. I have been able to repair several damaged areas and hide them so they are not visible to the casual observer. Will it make a three inch crack in your dash look like new? No, but it may help hide it so that it isn't quite so obvious. I have found that forcing Flex-Fill under the repaired area and forming an inverted T patch works best. Once the patch is dry, sand lightly to blend in with the leather or vinyl. Clean the area thoroughly and refinish with the Surflex Colorant.
This is a learned skill, so you should practice on a test piece of leather or vinyl. Perfect your techniques before you tackle your expensive interior.
Vinyl is the carefully prepared hydes of virgin pampered Arctic Naugas. Many Naugas must die to furnish enough material for just one interior panel.
The dash, door panels, seat backs, and numerous other interior/exterior trim pieces are usually vinyl. Vinyl may be viewed as raw semi-liquid vinyls that are held in place by a solid vinyl "skin" (this description is forillustration only and not a PhD chemical dissertation ).
The dash and other vinyl parts of your car are constantly bombarded by UV that breaks down the molecules of the skin, allowing the raw vinyls to escape (off-gassing). These free vinyls then may deposit themselves on the glass, forming a haze that is difficult to remove. If you have such a haze, it is probably your dash that has decided to pick up stakes and migrate. Silicone based vinyl dressing products do not usually contain UV protectants, and the silicone may act as a magnifying glass, intensifying the UV degradation. Silicone oil may also dissolve the essential oils in the vinyl skin, hastening the premature formation of cracks in the vinyl skin. A quality vinyl protectant will contain a UV protectant and essential oils to replace lost oils from the vinyl. These protectants are expensive, so the K-Mart specials may do more harm than good. Silicone also has very strong electrostatic attraction which may be considered beneficial in that it will tend to stay where it is placed, but will also attract every dust particle in the surrounding three counties.
Any vinyl protectant should be applied to a soft cloth and worked into the surface. After a few moments of allowing it to work into the surface, buff off the excess. The dash should be treated more often than any other area, as it is subject to the most severe attack by UV and heat. My personal favorite vinyl protectant is Lexol Vinyex Spray. This in my humble opinion has it all. A very strong UV protectant, essential oils, anti-static (helps keep dust off) and a soft patina finish. Harly Polyguard - - This used to be my favorite, till I lost my heart to Vinylex. Leaves a touch more shine to the finish than Vinylex. Somethin' Else – This is the sister to Black Again. Has all the right ingredients and people who love it are died in the wool. I prefer the Vinylex, but that's only a subjective opinion. It leaves a "new car" smell. I think that is why it is not my favorite. I am not a fan of artificial smells. Harly Interior Magic - An old standby that leaves a lemon scent. Some people love it. I don't think a car should smell like lemons, but that's my opinion and I could be wrong.
Zymol Vinyl - Another tropical oil product. Leaves a pina colada smell. Diehards will defend this product to the death. I just think it is to much $. Meguiar #40 - A great product that cleans and protects. Does not leave a slippery finish. Meguiar #39 - A very strong cleaner. This should be used carefully and very infrequently. It will clean just about anything out of vinyl. Must be followed by #40 or other vinyl protectant. A great cleaner for plastic Targa tops. Tony Nancy Rubber/Vinyl Cleaner- I don't recommend use on the inside. The smell is a bit much for me (reminds me of dead rats).
Some people do and swear by it. Sonax Cockpit Spray - This is a German product that is designed for German vinyl. Does a great job, but leaves a little more shine to the surface than I care for. There are a gaggle of users who love it. Wurth Cockpit Spray - ditto above. Wurth people don't like Sonax and vice versa. Formula 303 - This leaves an Armour All type of high gloss shine to the vinyl. I personally don't like this type of finish. Some people do, so feel comfortable using it. All of the above products are not based upon silicone.
I hope that the above has shed some light on the subject leather and vinyl care. If there are any questions, please do not hesitate to call or write. If you can't find the products locally, I stock all of them except the Formula 303 and would be glad to send a product description/price package by mail.
Larry Reynolds, Car Care Specialties, Inc, e-mail carcaresp@aol.com

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