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Bert 1999-07-08:
Alla CX25, 22 och 24 har kamkedja som håller hur länge som helst. När det
skramlar så mycket att grannarna tittar så kan man ju byta spännare så inte kedjan kommer ut ur kåpan på sidan.
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Julian B:
My CX 25 GTi had covered 125.000 miles and the chain was rattling so i decided to inspect behind the chain cover. What i found was a worn out tensioner with deep grooves worn in it and a STRETCHED chain which meant the sprockets were slightly miss-aligned. I replaced the chain and tensioner and gasket for less than £55 and this was supplied from a main dealer. Problem was the rattle continued, so I tightned the bearing behind the flywheel as advised in Haynes manual and reset the valve clearances - problem was the rattle continued. So using a metal bar placed to my ear I traced the rattle to be coming from behind the timing chain cover. To cut a long story short: the timing chain guide was worn. This is the metal and rubber section that runs down the RHS of the chain. Once the new one was in place (taking heed of the specified clearance from the Haynes manual) the rattling was gone! Tensioner cost £17.00.
P.S this job is nowhere near as scary as it sounds.....
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Ivar 2001-09-13:
Kamkedjan i motorn på min CX25 GTi -86 slamrar mellan 1900 och 2000 varv. Jag tror att ljudet uppstår då den slår i plåtkåpan som täcker mekanismen. När jag kör i 70 km/h på femmans växel varvar min bil just 2000 varv, då ljudet är som intensivast. Vet någon om det lätt går att spänna kedjan, eller är det bara att acceptera denna egenhet?
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Lars H:
Om det nu är kamkedjan som slamrar så bör du inte köra en meter innan du fixar det. Om kedjan går av så blir det generalras och stor renovering. Det är hur lätt som helst att kolla kamkjedjan genom höger hjulhus. Lossa kåpan och se hur läget är (ta gärna kontakt med någon typ av motorrenoveringsfirma för bedömning av kedjans skick).
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Marc B 2001-01-23:
How often is the timing chain supposed to be changed on the CX 25? Obviously a chain will show less wear than a belt, but I suppose it still wears (well, we all know the SM...). Haynes mentions only to change the tensioner when it has become too thin but what about the chain itself? Any known replacement interval? Changing should be straightforward as the cover can be removed from the right wheelarch, just don't want to open it up (and have to replace seals) when it is not necessary yet. Anything problematic to expect when opening or refitting the cover (like bolts rusted stuck and shearing off)?
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Mark GW:
I changed the timing chain, camshaft drive sprocket and tensioner on my previous CX25 at about 150 000 miles as I thought I could hear it rattling. There was no noticeable wear in the chain, no hooking of the teeth on the sprocket and very little wear (two small scuffs) in the tensioner pad, although it was sticking very slightly in its holder. I would advise just buying the gasket first, take the cover off, take the tensioner out and have a look, making sure its sliding nicely in the tube and then put it back together. Its a very straightforward job - took me a morning and that was fitting the new parts. The rattling noise was still there though - maybe coming from somewhere else or maybe I imagined it!
Alan D:
I think all the Cx 2400s and 25s that I have ever owned have all had noisy timing chains. Not too bad but not silent. So I renewed one many years ago and it made no difference....
Harry S (Michigan USA):
I had chain rattle on my CX 2500 Prestige a year or so ago. It was not the chain (though I replaced it) nor the tensioner (and I replaced that) but the chain guide. It gets hard and wears groves in it. It is also adjustable (see Haynes for the spec's). The replacement of the guide and then adjusting it to spec's did the trick.
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En japansk sida har en gör-det-själv-anvisning för 2400-motorn som jag översatt och kopierat (m h a Babelfish):
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Asahi:
The chain-tensioner of the CX is not automatic adjusting. Because of this, when the rubber pad wears play appears in the chain and the sound of the engine becomes large, ignition timing slips delicately and this becomes cause of output decrease.
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Exchange part that you need: Timing cover gasket.
Job procedure: about 60 minutes.
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First step:
- Height in MAX position.
- Right side of the car jacked-up, the front right wheel removed. Använd pallbockar! Blockera bakhjulen! (red anm).
- Pull the wheel house interior rubber cover to the right and remove it to be able to access the timing cover on the engines right side.
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Second step:
- Loosen the bolts which locks the timing cover.
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Third step:
- Raise the timing cover, mind the oil which is accumulated and flows out more or less, take care of the waste so it doesn't spread on the ground.
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Fourth step:
- The gasket is of made of cork and cannot be used again. As it removes, wipe off also the oil sludge which is in the engine and the cover.
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Fifth step:
- The timing chain tensioner - (the red arrow) - exposes on central left side.
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The chain tensioner:
- "R" is the rubber pad which guides the chain
- "G" is the guide rod
- "B" is the substance block
- "C" is the support pin which supports the position of the rubber pad
- "A" is the the ratchet with the pulling prevents the fact that it is packed. (? red anm)
- The spring which is built in to the guide rod is weak and cannot be expected to function the tensioner.
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Sixth step:
- You insert ahead the negative driver during block itself and the rubber pad and the lever ? ? are the time, when looseness has occurred in the timing chain,:
- Inserting ahead the negative driver with block itself and the flange of the support pin point, the tip of the sheath it sends out the support pin.
- Even with when sound has come out the feed per revolution is the ratchet 1 notch. You can feel distinct improvement effect even this.
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Seventh step:
- Description above, the opening of block itself and the flange of the support pin point is ( C).
- When the rubber pad ( R ) wear is advanced, it is necessary with exchange of the chain tensioner and the timing chain itself.
- The chain tensioner - exchange, the ratchet ( the yellow arrow ) inserting small minus the driver in the groove, when it turns to yellow arrow direction, it meaning that the ratchet is opened you push in the rubber pad, volt/bolt ( B ) loosen and exchange.
- After exchange looseness of the chain is taken with above-mentioned job.
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Eighth step:
- When tuning ends, be sure to reset the timing cover making use of the new gasket.
- Remount the rubber cover & the tire, and that's the end.
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