PetSun:  Ja... jo, alltså... jag har bara mätt med en så'n där penna med röda lysdioder för olika volt-styrkor... Men jag ska försöka förstå vad ni har skrivit. Bytt lampa har jag ju gjort flera gånger och insatsen med, men det där med jord, kabelskor (som i och för sig tidigare är utbytta till blyskor) och nollställning (förresten, kom just på att jag har lyft av kabeln för en nollställning i 30 min) kan ju vara något. Mäta motstånd, spänning och annat ligger lite utanför min jag-vet-exakt-vad-jag-gör-sfär, men ska ta ett tag med multimetern. Tackar så länge för råden..

Tore T: Bak/bromsljus i vänster bakskärm går på en egen härva på vänster sida i bilen. Alla övriga ljus där bak går via härvan på höger sida i bilen.   Hsd: Det finns ett schema på elen, och där framgår att det är flera säkringar till bakljuset. Om du tar den där pennan och mäter på de små metallstiften som sitter på ovansidan av varje säkring (nån mm ner i plasten) så kan du konstatera om säkringen 1. får spänning, 2. lämmnar ut spänning. Troligtvis är ena säkringen trasig.   Tronde: Lys bak, og markeringslys foran mates fra den grønne ledningen på nevnte skjema. Den går til sikringsboks 52 som er plassert inne i kupeen under rattet. Sikringsboks 50 er plassert foran luftfilter i motorrommet.

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Matta baklyktor

Bosse bildoktorns radioprogram 2007-03-31: Grå beläggning på bakljusglasen? Använd vattenslippapper. Börja med 800, gå över till 1000 och avsluta med 2000. Sedan polermaskin med rubbing. Då blir det blankt och fint igen! Var försiktig bara med polermaskinen så plasten inte blir för varm och bränns.

Dimbakljus fungerar inte:

Hank 2007-04-04:  Rear fog lights are not working. The warning light in the dash comes on to say the lights are on. I've tried new bulbs, but thats as far as I can go without help.   Påberg 2008-09-26: I have the same problem on my XM Break -93. I suspect the relay because there is no "click" when I push the button for the rear fog lights as it is when I push the button for the front fog lights.

Peter N: The most likely problem is a break in the wiring from the body to the tailgate.

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Rear End Electrical Fault:

Little&Large 2008-05-29:  I got into the car today,switched the ignition on and my rear fog warning lamp came on. I must admit I have had a lot of bulbs at the rear that needed replacing so I switched the lights on and there was nothing at all including the 1 tail light and 1 no plate light that had been working,also no rear wiper but the indicators worked as did the tail gate interior lights. I thought they had all blown so replaced all 4 tail lights,both no plate lights,another bulb that was iffy as well. Then for the grand illumination - only the 2 outside tail lights worked and still the indicators, still no wipers. Back into the car for further investigation! I then discover that just on sidelights everything works at the rear so I know all the bulbs work but the wash wipe is slow. With the headlights on(all work)if I start the wash wipe the mirror dips and it doesn't work. No lights on if I put it into reverse mirror dips and fog light light comes on. If I put it into reverse with the fog switch on the wiper is slow take it out of gear and the wiper is normal.It does seem to make a difference if the fog light switch is on,the light seems to go out(apologies I am getting confused now)! HELP!!!!I have had to sit in the car with a piece of paper writing down all the scenarios!It seems as thought there is a bad earth or something similar..but where. Any help would be gratefully received as always.

Peter N:  Yes, sounds like a bad earth somewhere, I expect someone will be along in a minute to tell you where. A common problem with the rear electrics is the wires that go from the body to the tailgate, with a lot of tailgate use they fracture where they go across the gap.   techmanagain:  I think that - having satisfied myself that the battery was OK AND its terminals and earth on the engine were good - I would then go to the trouble hotspot mentioned earlier - the RH supply wires in the flexible corrugated tube between the tailgate and the body. This would apply to either estate or saloon. If you can find a scrapper, remove a section of loom above the RH rear door before this flexing point and solder it in (both before and after the present suspect section). Soldering or otherwise connecting at the flexing point is NOT a solution! If you can use heatshrink tubing over the soldered joints it will save trying to use insulating tape. Most motor factors stock it now in various diameters.

Little&Large   Thanks for that-I will investigate tomorrow.I will also clean up all the connectors and spray with WD40.I suppose the dipping mirrors is associated with power going to the reversing lights.By virtue of the rear fog light being central to all the various symptons surely that must be where the bad earth is?Does anyone know which colour the fog lamp wire is.Everything works as it should but not at the same time! I had the switch out of the dash but all looked well there. Most strange.

xmexclusive:  The chances of it not being the cables on the drivers side of the tailgate is very remote but as most things try to work until you draw a heavy current I suspect that the odd copper strand is still connecting across the break. There is only one earth wire for all the lights so this particular cable has a much greater effect if it looses a few strands than any other tailgate cable. (INMHO all XM earthing is crap, even in Mk2's) If you loop in a temporary earth from the rear wing lights to the tailgate lights all should return and work for now. This should give you a bit of time to chose when to repair. On an estate it is usually a sharp edge to the hole the cables come out of the fiberglass frame of the side of the tailgate that breaks the cables. This is about 3 inches below the rubber cable sleeve at the hinge. Easier to get to than on a car where the wires go up alongside the hinge.    I made this temporary earth fix to the red estate and managed for about 3 months before I did the permanent repair. It even got an MOT pass in this state with it pointed out to the tester. The wire needs to run from the tailgate bulb holder (most inboard contact) to either the rear wing bulb holder (most outboard contact/red stripe on 4 way grey cable) or to a body earth point such as the threaded stud that holds the centre of the rear wing storage box in place (look inside the storage box). If you use a long enough piece of wire tape it out of the way and you can still use the tailgate without loosing the lights. If nothing else this link wire will confirm the position of the earthing fault even if you do not leave it in place. It is easier if you use the same size/colour wire to make the repairs and do one wire at a time. When I finally did the red one it took less than an hour but I use an isolated 50W soldering iron so can work without disconnecting the car battery. Let me know if you want some matching wire.

Little&Large  Thanks for all the info - I am sure that must be where it is then.Why has it affected the dipping rear view mirror as well which to me doesn't seem to have much to do with the tailgate? My brother is good with all things electrical so I will ask him nicely. One thing I forgot to mention was when I put all 4 new tail bulbs in they all had a very pale orange glow to them even though the lights were not on. Ie a very low current was somehow reaching them-not enough to illuminate the lamp but still visible. Does this make any difference or is it still a cracked wire?

wirdy:  I had your exact symptoms. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like you have about five hours work ahead of you to rewire the rear electrics. This is what mine looked like, but everything is perfect now I've spliced in some new wire and put it all back together. At least it also gave me a chance to rewire the apallingly bad tow bar wiring installation by the previous owner.    It has affected the dipping rear view mirror as well because a short circuit is putting 12v onto the reversing lights wire on the tailgate and the mirror also uses this reverse lights wire to sense that you've put the car in reverse. Funnily enough, my mirror was dipping whenever I braked! and my fog lights were coming on whenever I put the car in reverse.

Little&Large  Many thanks for the good news! I had a quick look at my wires this morning and I can't see any obvious breaks.At least everything works-at least it does if I can remember the sequence of switches on/off is!

Peter.N:  The way I repaired mine was to cut all the damaged section out and insert a section of new wire long enough to go from inside the body to inside the tailgate, and join the ends with crimp connectors (the ones that look like bullet connectors), then push both joins well into the tailgate and body. There is plenty of room for the extra wire. The whole operation for the wires that were broken took less than an hour. Only do one wire at a time or you will end up with all sorts malfunctions.   wirdy:  All the rewiring, including removal and refitment of all the tailgate and rear end trim as well?? Wow, I need you in my workshop Peter! Amazing!   Peter.N:  What makes you think the trim has gone back yet? On mine I fitted high level brake lights at the same time so the trim will need a cut out to refit. Then there is the boot catch loose bolts to repair as well and the rear screen washer to sort out.

Little&Large  One last question(s).Where is the break likely to be?Presumably not in the roof section,most likely the section visible within the concertina or possibly inside the actual tailgate section as well?Why not just replace the offending wire or do you do the whole lot to prevent further problems?

wirdy:  Replace the wires on condition. Out of the ten? or so conductors on my car, only two looked externally okay (internally, who knows?), the rest showed clear evidence of insulation cracks. As I didn't want to ever do the job again I decided to splice in new wires for all of them. The trim is particularly challenging to refit without breaking any plastic snappers. It becomes even more challenging when you leave it two weeks between removal and refit....and can't remember how it came off and end up with a few 'spare' bits!   Peter.N:  No No No, I didnt strip anything out, I just pulled the rubber gaiter out of each end, then pulled the leads out and cut each lead and joined in a section of wire, long enough to go right through the gaiter and into the tailgate/body, then poked the ends back into the respective orifices. I connected both ends with bullet type crimp connectors. The joins at both ends are far enough from the bendy bit not to be stressed.

Loft lys:

Bjarne B 2008-12-02:  Er der nogen der ved hvor det kan være galt når loft lys tænder når man har lukket alle døre, så går der lidt tid så tænder lys, hvor sider rælet il lyset inde i bilen.

Shans:  Relæet sidde under handskerummet. Du skal have hele indsatsen ud for og komme til det. Det er blåt. Det kan også være micro kontakterne i dine dør låse der driller. Jeg har godt nok ikke oplevet det problem du har. Normal plejer det og være den anden vej, altså ingen lys i kabinen overhovedet. Du kan så vidt jeg ved, kun købe relæet originalt, dvs. hos Citroen eller Peugeot. Hvis ikke du kan vente, skal du nok prøve hos Peugeot. De plejer og have det på "lager" i Danmark, modsat Citroen !?   Sven:  Hvis kabinelyset ikke slukker når du lukker alle døre men først slukker når du tænder motoren (med lukket døre) så er det det blå relæ under hanskerummet... Har haft fejlen på 2 xm'er nu...   Tronde:  Det er nok kun originalvare. Det er egentlig en liten enkel elektronikkrets. Det kan være bryet verdt å åpne boksen for å se etter dårlige loddinger og evt. brente komponenter.

Bjarne B:  Er der nogen der kan fortælle mig hvordan hanskerummet tages ud, har taget 4 skruer + de to 6m/m bolte ud men kan ikke få det ud hvad har jeg glemt? Hjælp!

Tronde:  Er det slik at du har XM serie 1? Ta ut lampen i venstre side. Selve hanskerommet sitter også festet med noen plasthaker på hver kortside. Bruk noe tynt og flatt til å presse forsiktig inn mellom hanskerommet og bilen. Bend forsiktig løs. Det er også noe med å være forsiktig med noen låsehaker for låsing av lokket, pluss en kontakt som visstok kommer til syne når hanskerommet såvidt har kommet løs.